Spectacular Sindhudurg

By

Chiksunny

   Some call it the ‘Mahabaleshwar’ of Konkan. Some say it is the 'Queen of the Hills'. But Amboli, nestled comfortably in the midst of luxuriant foliage on the Sahyadri Mountains and perched at a height of 690m above sea level is relatively tranquil and uncluttered by commercialization and unfolds a charisma that appeals to the heart and the soul. This hill station in Sindhudurg district is said to be the wettest in Maharashtra, receiving the highest rainfall during the rainy season.

Amboli is a tourist’s delight and an artist’s pride. Home to innumerable species of animals, birds and medicinal plants, it has contributed generously to our country’s bio-diversity.
 

Amboli is known to be at it’s beautiful best just after the monsoons when it brings alive many waterfalls which delight the vacationers with voluminous waters cascading from great heights and quenching the thirst of the bare rocky terrains down the slopes. The main waterfall is just five kilometers away and three kilometers nearby, is the sunset point.
 

There are many lovely spots worth a watch around this cool place. We booked ourselves in the serene Green Valley Resorts. Four kilometers away, the river Hiranyakeshi originates from a cave adjacent to a temple of Goddess Parvati at the foot of a mountain. Water rushes out with tremendous force to fall into a squarish tank or ‘Kund’, from where it flows out. Opposite, an old tree offers ample space around it’s roots to urge devotees to meditate without disturbance

The Kawalesad point, eight kilometers away, presents a stunning view of the yawning gorge and rugged mountains. A further two- kilometer drive through a narrow, twisting and turning path laced with dense trees took us to Mahadeogad point. Peacocks and rabbits are occasionally spotted here. Layers of fog surrounded us, weaving a shroud of mystery as to what lay ahead. Strong winds presently cleared the path before us, unfolding a panoramic view of the scenic valley. Shirgaonkar point (1 km) presented another awesome spectacle of the deep ravine. 
Sawantwadi, thirty kilometers from Amboli, is a town endowed with lush forests and valleys. Khem Sawant Bhosale, ruler of Sunderwadi, built Sawantwadi Palace during 1755-1803. There is a nominal fee for touring the area .The ‘Darbar Hall’ is magnificent with the beautiful throne at the center, the stately chairs for the ministers and the top balconies, where the women used to sit and watch the proceedings.

Sawantwadi is famous for it’s lacquer craft, artificial fruits and wooden toys. Ganjifa is a very popular 18^th century card game, depicting the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. There is a great demand oversees for the cards, which cost a whopping Rs.2000/-. Of course, a lot of patience and hard work behind each card is involved -the application of colour lacquer on it’s surface, the polishing using ‘Kewda’ leaves and the painting of the border floral and mythological characters. Opposite to the palace is a beautiful lake, the Moti Talav.

  

Shiroda is a small, unassuming village, 92 km from Sawantwadi. It is well known for the historic ‘Salt Satyagraha’, which was started here by Mahatma Gandhi. Salt is recovered by direct evaporation of the sea water by the sun and there are many such salt mounds produced in various parts of the community. The Marathi author Shri V. S. Khandekar served as a teacher in Shiroda for about eighteen years.

While at Shiroda, enjoy a tent house stay in Hotel Greenfield, run by the Dongre family. Here, warm hospitality and the mouth-watering local cuisine is a not-to-be-missed experience. The sparkling blue waters of the Arabian Sea have brought the silver sands of the Shiroda beach right up to the courtyard of the resort, which speaks volumes of the fury and strength of nature during the monsoons and high tides. In the stillness of the night, one can clearly hear the waves lapping against the rocks. At dawn, awaken to the cry of peacocks in the nearby bushes. Swaying Casurina trees, chirping birds, verdant flora and the rustic charm of Shiroda urges one to return and savour it all again. 

Sagarteerth beach, three kilometers away, is all golden coloured with it’s waters dark blue and begging for a swim. Here again, the cleanliness in the area makes one appreciate it’s charm all the more and urges one to spend time at leisure, to let it’s loveliness sink in.

About twelve kilometers from Shiroda is Reddi village, well known for it’s manganese mines. On 18^th April 1976, Lord Ganpati appeared in the dreams of Sadanand Nagesh Kambli, a mine worker and told him about the whereabouts of his idol buried under the ground. On digging the area, a six-foot intact idol of Lord Ganpati along that of his trusted mouse were uncovered, much to the joy of the villagers. A temple was constructed and now Reddi has attained significance as a pilgrim spot.
 

We also visited Terekhol Fort, built atop a cliff on the Maharashtra-Goa border near the Reddi creek. Now converted into a heritage hotel, the view of the Arabian Sea from it’s terrace is arresting. Enroute to Kolhapur via Gaganbavda, we visited the Vengurla Sea Port. Vengurla boasts of a flourishing fishing trade and Ubhadanda nearby is the hometown of the famous cricketer Sunil Gavaskar.

View of the Arabian Sea from Fort Terekhol

Vengurla Sea Port
 

During 1178-1209, King Bhoj II built Gagangad Fort in Vaibhavwadi. It towers majestically at a height of 2500 feet on the highest peak of the mountains of Gaganbavda village, 150 km from Shiroda. The steep winding roads of the Karul Ghat leading to the bastion present an exciting challenge to drivers and offer heart -lurching moments at every turn. Part of the fun is in enjoying nature’s bounty of unadulterated beauty of the flora and fauna with the perilous sloping topography. Within the premises, is a Datta temple in a cave, an ashram of Gagangiri Maharaj, a meditation hall and a lodging complex for devotees. There is also a Samadhi of Saint Gahininath.
  

Gagangad Fort

The strategic roads leading to Gagangad

Sindhudurg offers a lot to tourists by way of it’s natural beauty decked with lush greenery, coconut groves, scenic coastlines, golden beaches, historic forts, innumerable temples and clean breathing air. One visit to the region and you are hooked for life. You can never get enough of it and then, returning to experience it all again becomes a habit. A habit that grows on you -with pleasure and gratitude.

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Shiroda-Hut setting (Hotel Greenfield )

Sand from  Shiroda beach leading to Hotel Greenfield

Shiroda Beach-An ecstatic swim

Shiroda Beach

The Ball of Fire at Shiroda beach

Ganjifa Cards-Artist at work

Coconut uses

Fishermen at work on the Sagarteerth beach

The Milky Froth of the Sagarteerth Waters
 

Terms

Gagan=sky Bavda=well

The Route

Kolhapur-Gargoti-Gadhinglaz-Aajra-Suleshan-Amboli-Danoli-Sawantwadi-Ajgaon-Shiroda-Aravali-Vengurla-Kudal-Kanakawali-Gaganbavda-Kolhapur
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Another good option is travelling by the Konkan Railway
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Fact files

Pune-Amboli: 390km

Kolhapur-Amboli: 125km

Amboli-Sawantwadi: 30km

Sawantwadi-Shiroda: 26km

Shiroda-Gaganbavda: 150km

(Via Kankavali)

Gaganbavda-Kolhapur: 60km

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Where to Stay and Eat
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At Amboli
Green Valley Resort
Amboli
Ph:02363-240236,240239
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At Shiroda
Hotel Greenfield (Dongre Brothers' Tent Resort) 
Aravali-Sagarteerth, Near Shiroda Beach, Tal. Vengurls, Dist. Sindhudurg-416518
Ph: 02366-227355, 227397, 280327  Mob: 9423511343
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Copyright©ChiksunnyJanuary2008